i found the most incredible place to stay via airbnb.com. it wasn’t luxury: it was *comfort*. my hostess thought of everything a body might need, from fresh fruit to chicory coffee to both chilled beer and water in the fridge. and Miss Ariana herself was one of the best parts of the trip: music, a crash-course on which of the (many) men’s approaches signaled respectful interest versus mere prurience, and later absinthe served by a deeply arrogant russian. our evening ended somewhere around 3:30am. new orleans’ evening did not.